Have you ever admired the elegant style of a qipao, only to wonder if wearing one might cross a cultural line? In today’s globalized world, questions of cultural appreciation versus appropriation are more relevant than ever. The qipao, a dress rich with Chinese history and symbolism, has sparked worldwide debate about who gets to wear it and why it matters. In this article, we’ll explore the story behind the qipao, its cultural significance, and the discussion around cultural appropriation.
Ready to untangle the threads? Read on to discover more.
Understanding the Qipao: From Historical Roots to Modern Icon
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The qipao (also called cheongsam in Cantonese) is perhaps the most widely recognized traditional Chinese dress in the world. Characterized by its high collar, fitted waist, and elegant silk fabric, it’s been a symbol of femininity and cultural pride since the early 20th century. However, when worn outside of its original cultural context—especially by non-Chinese individuals—it sometimes sparks debate over cultural appropriation versus cultural appreciation.
In this article, we’ll delve into the qipao’s origins, meanings, evolving cultural role, and why its use by people from outside the culture raises complex questions.
The Origins and Evolution of the Qipao
Early History
The qipao traces its roots to the early 20th century, but its story begins even earlier. During the Qing Dynasty (1644–1912), Manchu women wore a long, loose gown called the changpao. As China entered the Republican era in the 1920s and 1930s, influences from the West—especially in bustling cities like Shanghai—led to a significant transformation. The changpao evolved into the more fitted, form-flattering dress known as the qipao or cheongsam.
Icon of Modern China
During its heyday in the 1920s and 1930s, the qipao became a fashionable symbol of modern Chinese womanhood. Movie stars, socialites, and intellectuals wore it as a statement of both modernity and national identity. Over time, it started to be made with luxurious silks, brocades, and embroidery, showcasing artistry and social status.
From Daily Wear to Symbolic Attire
After 1949, political shifts saw the decline of the qipao as everyday clothing in mainland China, replaced by more practical, modest clothes. However, in Hong Kong, Taiwan, and overseas Chinese communities, the dress persisted—often reserved for festive events, weddings, and formal occasions.
Cultural Meaning, Symbolism, and Significance
Layers of Meaning
The qipao extends far beyond being just a piece of clothing. For many, it encapsulates a complex narrative of Chinese history, femininity, and social change. Its slim silhouette and elaborate embroidery can symbolize grace, tradition, and the merging of East and West.
When Is the Qipao Worn?
In contemporary Chinese society, the qipao is often donned during significant cultural events:
- Weddings: Brides may wear a red qipao, symbolizing luck and happiness.
- Festivals: The qipao is common during Lunar New Year, especially among women seeking to honor tradition.
- Graduations and Ceremonies: As a nod to heritage, students or attendees may wear qipao-style outfits.
- International Representation: Beauty pageants, official banquets, or diplomatic events may feature women in qipao as an emblem of Chinese culture.
Symbolism in Design
Embroidered motifs (like peony flowers, dragons, or phoenixes) further deepen the meaning. These symbols are thought to bring good fortune, prosperity, or represent particular virtues.
Variations and Regional Differences
Style Evolution
- Traditional Qipao: Looser, more conservative, often ankle-length.
- Modern Qipao: Slim-fit with side slits, shorter cut, and diverse necklines. Sometimes, modern designers blend Western fashion elements with qipao motifs.
- Hong Kong and Shanghai Styles: Hong Kong’s qipaos are known for practical elegance, while Shanghai’s are flamboyant and closely fitted.
Related Concepts
- Tang Suit (唐裝): Another version of traditional Chinese clothing, different from the qipao, generally worn by men.
- Hanfu (漢服): The traditional Han Chinese dress, distinct from the Manchu-origin qipao.
Contemporary Visibility and Representation
In Pop Culture
Qipao dresses appear regularly in movies, television, and fashion runways. They are featured in period dramas, video games, and Chinese-themed balls or galas across the globe. Icons like Maggie Cheung and Gong Li have made the qipao famous internationally.
Export and Globalization
The dress became a Chinese cultural export, beloved for its elegance and exoticism. Some non-Chinese celebrities and designers have used qipao elements in fashion collections, sometimes sparking debate.
The Debate: Qipao, Cultural Appropriation, and Appreciation
What is Cultural Appropriation?
Cultural appropriation refers to adopting elements of a culture—often a marginalized or minority culture—by those from a more dominant group, sometimes without understanding or respecting its meaning. This often involves issues of power, stereotyping, and commercialization.
The Qipao Controversies
One well-publicized instance involved an American teenager wearing a qipao to prom and sharing photos online. While some praised her appreciation of Chinese culture, others—particularly some Asian Americans—expressed anger, arguing it reduced a significant garment to a mere fashion statement, divorced from its roots.
Main Concerns Raised:
- Stereotyping: Using the qipao as a costume or exotic prop, especially in theme parties or Halloween, can perpetuate reductive or fetishizing images.
- Historical Context: For some, the qipao carries memories of Chinese marginalization in the West or is intertwined with struggles over cultural representation.
- Disconnection from Meaning: Wearing the qipao only for its “look,” without understanding its history, can feel disrespectful.
Voices from Within the Culture
Not all Chinese or Chinese diaspora individuals see the issue the same way. Some feel proud to see their culture embraced globally, provided it’s done with respect. Others are more protective, especially if they’ve faced stereotyping themselves. There is no single “Chinese view” on this issue.
The Difference Between Appropriation and Appreciation
Intent and context matter. Wearing a qipao respectfully to a Chinese wedding, festival, or when invited by Chinese friends is often seen as appreciation. Wearing it as a costume, parody, or sexualized outfit is more likely to be viewed as offensive.
Facts, Myths, and Anecdotes
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Myth: Only Chinese women can or should wear the qipao.
Fact: While rooted in Chinese culture, people of other backgrounds have worn the dress, especially at cross-cultural events and in international fashion. -
Myth: The qipao is ancient.
Fact: Its modern form is about a century old, emerging in the 1920s in cosmopolitan Shanghai. -
Fact: Qipao fashion was sometimes a symbol of women’s liberation in early 20th-century China, as wearing it challenged deeply conservative attitudes.
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Anecdote: In old Shanghai, the glamour of the qipao was celebrated in films and nightclubs. Today, it’s reclaimed by young Chinese fashionistas as both retro and trendy.
Qipao in the Modern World
The qipao is enjoying a renaissance in China and overseas. It appears at weddings, international pageants, and even as inspiration for modern gowns and evening dresses.
Younger generations, including Chinese youth, are actively revisiting and reinventing traditional dress, sometimes blending qipao with streetwear. Online, you’ll find vibrant debates on how best to honor heritage—whether that means upholding strict traditions or welcoming new cross-cultural expressions.
Conclusion
The qipao is more than a beautiful dress—it’s a living symbol of Chinese history, creativity, and identity. As it travels the world, its use by non-Chinese people can spark challenging but important conversations on cultural sharing, power, and respect. While there’s no universal answer, thoughtful engagement, learning the garment’s story, and paying homage to its origins are always good starting points. Like all cultural heritage, the qipao thrives when treated with reverence and understanding.
FAQ
1. What is a qipao (cheongsam), and how is it traditionally worn?
A qipao is a high-collared, form-fitting dress with side slits, typically made of silk or brocade. Traditionally, it’s ankle-length and worn with simple shoes. Modern versions vary in length and style but retain the iconic fitted silhouette.
2. Is it ever appropriate for non-Chinese people to wear a qipao?
Many feel it’s appropriate to wear a qipao when invited to Chinese weddings or celebrations, or in contexts that honor its history—provided it’s done respectfully and not as a costume or parody.
3. Why do some people consider wearing a qipao cultural appropriation?
Concerns arise when people from outside the culture wear the dress without understanding its significance, or use it as a costume. This can contribute to stereotyping and commercialization of cultural heritage.
4. How are qipaos viewed in China today?
In modern China, the qipao is primarily worn on special occasions like weddings, festivals, and formal events. Some young people wear updated qipao designs as retro fashion statements.
5. What’s the difference between cultural appreciation and appropriation with qipao?
Appreciation involves learning about the culture and wearing the dress in respectful contexts. Appropriation typically means using it without understanding, potentially for humor, exoticism, or profit.
6. Are there different styles of qipao?
Yes. Qipaos can be long or short, made with a variety of fabrics, and feature different levels of embroidery. Styles differ regionally, with Shanghai and Hong Kong having distinct looks.
7. Is the qipao still worn in daily life in China?
Rarely. It’s mostly reserved for weddings, performances, photo shoots, or formal gatherings. However, some contemporary designs allow for occasional casual wear.
8. Can men wear qipao?
The qipao is traditionally a women’s garment. Men’s traditional attire is the changshan. However, some modern designers are challenging gender norms and creating qipao-inspired outfits for men.
9. How should one wear a qipao respectfully?
Learn about its history and context. Avoid wearing it as a costume or in ways that sexualize or trivialize its meaning. It’s thoughtful to wear it for significant events and to appreciate its artistry.
10. What should I do if someone says my wearing a qipao is offensive?
Listen respectfully to their viewpoint. Cultural symbols have deep meaning and can evoke strong emotions. Express your intent, be open to learning, and consider whether your choice contributes to understanding or misunderstanding.
